Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a international community of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound gastronomic legacy and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always characterized its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to learn these narratives and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
